🇱🇸 Lesotho

Dec 17, 2024 ∞

Visiting Lesotho via the Sani Pass

We spent a few days in Durban primarily so we could do a daytrip over to Lesotho (pronounced “Luh-soo-too”). The tour is highlighted by driving the infamous Sani Pass 4WD route through the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park UNESCO World Heritage Site, culminating in a visit to the Highest Pub in Africa, and a short stop at a local village to learn more about local traditions.

Lesotho is an interesting country. It is the largest enclave country in the world (aka, completely surrounded by a single other country), and the only one outside of the Italian peninsula. That’s due to its history and geography.

The area was ruled by King Moshoeshoe I as Basutoland in the early 19th century. But as conflicts arose with Zulu expansion, as well as encroachment from the Boers (Dutch-descended settlers), the king appealed to Britain for help and became a British protectorate in 1868. It gained independence in 1966.

It’s also the only country entirely above 1000m, though it’s lowest point is 1400m (4593ft). It’s geography might be its most defining feature. Life isn’t easy here, with high levels of unemployment. It’s major industries are subsistence farming, remittances (especially from Basotho working in South African mines), textile exports (especially their famous blankets), and water (which is sold to South Africa).

Along the way from Durban, we stopped at the Mahatma Gandhi statue in Pietermaritzburg. This is near the spot where Gandhi, a lawyer en route from Durban via train to help a client, was forcibly evicted from his first-class seat to a third class one because of his race, in spite of holding a first class ticket. The episode was the catalyst for his campaign of passive resistance.

We didn’t spend much time here, unfortunately, as our guide noted that it wasn’t safe to remain there very long. He mentioned that he had noticed a number of individuals taking unusual interest in us. Bummer. So we took a few rushed photos and promptly left. The possibility of crime seems to be a theme for us in South Africa.

Sani Pass

The Sani Pass road was fun! Well, for Scott…not so much for Jen. You pass through South Africa immigration just prior to the rough portion of the road, entering a sort of “no man’s land” while you climb the river valley towards the plateau, where the immigration station for Lesotho is located. There are numerous switchbacks and we needed 4WD low to traverse a number of stretches. Somehow less capable vehicles often make the drive; not sure I would.

Once at the top, we entered Lesotho, then drove to the highest point. Apparently, this might be the highest point on a roadway on the continent. Then it was off to a local “village” to learn more about the local culture. After that, we popped over to the lodge, which sports the Highest Pub in Africa.

Observations

Our guide bought a bunch of stuff from the grocery store stop to bring to the border patrol agents. Not the ones that were staffing the actual window, but the ones seated in patio chairs in the shade near the impromptu parking area. We noticed that in addition to some beverages and candy, they were also given a nudie magazine and cigarettes.

We asked our guide about it, and he said, yeah we just bring them things because they advertise our company on their window. But it was also clear that he knew everyone in both checkpoints and could just take our passports and usher us through quickly, even if we stood outside.
Whew boy, the Sani Pass region of Lesotho seems like a tough place to live. While there was clearly sheepherding going on, we saw as many folks panhandling.
It was windy af, and virtually every local wore their traditional blanket, many with head coverings roughly resembling ski masks, even in the summer.

Looking down the river valley that we just drove up